Saturday, December 1, 2012

Crossing The Aegean

My Santorini escape finished, sadly, on Wednesday and I had to move on to the next part of my adventure. That meant a flight from Santorini to Athens, overnight in Athens, and then a flight to Istanbul.
I’ve developed a bit of a habit of not doing much on these transiting days, partly because the travelling is often quite time-consuming, so there’s not much other time in the day (especially in the northern winter), and partly because I’m on holiday and I don’t want to feel under pressure to ‘do something’ every waking hour!
So, I travelled into Athens on the Metro just as before. I was so confident that I knew what was going on that I set myself up to write blog entries on my laptop on the 40min trip on the train.
This Church is 50m from the Plaka,
I discovered after walking 500m
Well, confidence is a fine thing except when it’s misplaced! I suddenly realised that I was the only one on the train and the transport police wanted me to get off! I’d managed to travel to the end of the line (about four stops too many)! Well, anyway, it was no particular harm as I could jump straight onto the train going in the other direction. This time I paid more attention! I got off at Monastariki Plaza as it was closer to my new hotel. I then walked around trying to find the place on dead reckoning. Oddly, I did quite well getting within 50m of the hotel and then turned the wrong way and added another 500m to the journey, towing my bag along cobblestoned paths.
The untiring view
The Plaka Hotel was quite comfortable and the room I was given had the wonderful view I cannot get tired of in Athens. I went out to see if I could buy a book to read, which is not as easy as you might imagine because I don’t read Greek! Anyway, I was directed to a store I knew quite well, Public, and was able to buy a copy of Game of Thrones, the first part of the Songs of Fire and Ice trilogy. Friends will recognise that I love this TV series and am now reading the original work. Let me tell you, the rich colour of the TV series adds to the book immeasurably (for me) and the TV series appears to be very faithful to the story of the book. After acquiring the book, I wandered around and found a ‘random’ cafĂ© and ate a late lunch/early dinner (Linner?); this is becoming another holiday habit. It is a habit that I look forward to losing when I get home and can get hold of my diet again.
That view, at night, from the roof
Some of the rest of Athens, at night,
from the roof of the Plaka Hotel
After Linner, I went back to the hotel which had a Roof Garden Bar with this wonderful view. However, it was lightly spitting and with a cold wind, so I didn’t stay. I spent the evening updating the blog.
The next morning, I took the Metro back to the airport and flew to Istanbul on Turkish Airways. I thought for quite a while that I’d been given a free bump to business class; that was certainly the boarding pass they gave me. However, it turns out that they’d given me someone else’s boarding pass and in spite of it being checked against my passport three times on the way to the seat, it was only when some ‘celebrity’ (politician, I think) and their entourage showed up did they realise I was in the wrong seat. So, I was moved back to the seat I’d originally been given when I checked in on Santorini the day before. It was disappointing and a little inconvenient, but whatever. And, no, I hadn’t checked the name on the boarding pass when I received it, why would I? I was the only person at the counter at the time and I’ve never been handed the wrong boarding pass before.
On arrival at Istanbul I (re-)discovered that I needed a visa which was purchased immediately prior to crossing the immigration border. Fortunately, I had enough Euro on me for the price (they don’t do credit card transactions I discovered waiting in line) but I was disappointed that my visa cost me three times as much as an American would pay for the minimum stay (90 days). Apparently, Australia charges the Turks a lot for a visa, so they charge us a lot; payback is a bitch.
After the other formalities (a cursory passport inspection and no customs perusal at all), I purchased a SIM card for a local telephone company and then set out to work out how to get to my hotel. I headed over to a booth titled “Hotel Transfer Information” where a young man with very good English suggested that he could transfer me to my hotel for 200Euro! I declined immediately. “Oh, you can use a credit card,” he said. I told him I didn’t have that kind of credit (which was true at that moment) and asked for a cheaper alternative. “Oh, well, you can take the Metro to Sultanahmet.” “How much will that be?” “Three euro.” Three! He wanted to charge me 200! Nobody who knows me at all would think I would do anything apart from taking the Metro. That proved to be a little more complicated than I would have preferred. The Metro tokens are easy to acquire, but you actually need two for that trip as you change from a train onto a tram. More inconveniently, the tokens go into a turnstile that is wide enough for a normal person to walk through. A normal person with a large bag, however, can get stuck easily and/or must carry their heavy bag over the turnstile while operating the machine with at least one hand. Yep; inconvenient.
The Blue Mosque
Obelisk from Karnack
The Turks have less English signage in their tourist notices and direction signs. I realised while watching out for station changes on the packed tram how much more convenient the travelling had been in Greece.
Anyway, I got off at the correct stop and set off for my hotel, again with dead reckoning. This time I got to within 50m of the hotel and asked for directions, so I hadn’t really walked too much further than I needed. I had walked past some of the major sites in Istanbul’s Old City, like the Blue Mosque and obelisks from Egypt (one from Karnak Temple at Luxor, of which I’d seen its twin).
The hotel is very comfortable and furnished in a style that just smacks of “The Ottoman Empire”, as I imagine it anyway. It is, however, directly between two mosques, so I know when they are called to prayer! Again, I stayed in the hotel for the bulk of the time, resting. I did take up an offer that the hotel made to provide a personal guide for half-a-day. I felt that it would help me understand the place a bit before I tried to make sense of Istanbul on my own.
The view from my room
That's the Black Sea!
I did venture out about 5pm to find an outlet store of the telecom provider form which I’d bought the SIM that would make my phone connect to the internet. This proved to be non-trivial to the uninitiated, including those in the store, but we did resolve it after the primary guy helping me out “phoned a friend”.
Dinner and some TV and I turned in for the night.

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