It is customary for there to be hawkers and
touts hanging around all the sights. At the more formal sites (e.g. Valley of
the Kings or Hatsuhtep’s Temple), they have a runway of small shops down which
visitors must pass to get in or out of the complex. At other places, they just
hang around the bus, or bother the walking tourists as they move from the bus
to the sight and back. Usually, they’ll leave you alone fairly quickly as they
move on to other prey, but sometimes they can be very persistent.
There are a variety of tricks that these
guys (for they are all men, or boys) use. Primary is to offer “very cheap
price; Asda price. Just 5 (Egyptian) pounds” (5 Egyptian is less than 1 AUD)
for the tat they are selling, which is probably worth about 0.20AUD. Sometimes,
they give you a “free sample”, which then has the catch of requiring money for
some other purpose. Sometimes, the initial offer of pounds turns quickly into
Sterling (a factor of ten increase!). Very rarely to never are there actual
deals to be had, although I’ve taken the advice of our guide and bought some
postcard sets, etc, to ensure I have good photos of the things I may not have
recognised, or been unable to photograph.
I’ve developed a habit of looking busy,
walking briskly, and saying “No, thank you” or even “La la, shock run” (which
is Arabic for No, Thank you). Most of the touts don’t waste too much time on me
as they focus on the English women in the group who are too polite to simply
brush them off.
The most astonishing version of this was
when we passed through the lock at Esna. Here, the boat slows to a crawl as it
slips into a lock just a few feet wider than its beam. From some 200m before
the lock, there were small rowboats in front of the river boat, with touts
shouting “Hello! Hello! Hey, Rambo (not to me), you buy nice scarf for your
wife?” They even threw samples on board in spite of no one engaging them in
conversation. The samples are handed back by the boat’s crew after a short
time, although one of my tour buddies, threw a couple of samples back to the
tout vigorously. One of them, a towel, ended up in the Nile just beside the
tout’s boat and he was very upset “Are you crazy?” We couldn’t believe the
affront. When we got to the lock there were dozens of hawkers all shouting
“Hello!”, “You want nice scarf/carpet/galabia? Very cheap prices! Asda Prices!”
This was not really how I’d hoped to spend the time in the lock, but it seems
to very much be the Egyptian way.
Now, I know that these touts and hawkers
are only doing their job. They don’t have any other source of income (it
seems). And most of them get the message pretty quickly. Apparently the
Ministry of Tourism has instructed such touts not to be too persistent as it
drives away tourists. I’m not sure how much that’s taken to heart. It certainly
doesn’t heighten the experience for me, I have to say.

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